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| Sewing Nuggets – Questions And Answers (Q&A) With Linda Lee How To – Ask Linda Sew News Magazine Topic: Questions And Answers (Q&A) With Linda Lee Questions And Answers With Linda Lee Zipper Savvy About twenty years ago, I purchased a Unique Invisible Zipper Foot that came with varying shanks for different machines. It included scanty instructions on how to use it and how to install an invisible zipper. Do you have more complete instructions that will help me? Lynn M In addition to the Unique Invisible Zipper Foot attachment, which is still available from YKK, sewing machine companies manufacture special presser feet for this purpose. Check with your local dealer to see what’s new for your specific machine. To install an invisible zipper, first remember that it’s inserted before the seam is stitched. On the fabric right side, chalk-mark the seam allowance line along the zipper length. Press a narrow strip of fusible web inside the seam allowances next to the markings. Open the zipper From the wrong side, iron the zipper coils flat using a warm temperature. Don’t press them so much that they melt. With the zipper front facing the fabric right side, fuse the right side of the zipper tape to the right-hand fabric wide, aligning the coils on the seamline and placing the zipper upper edge ¼” below the garment upper edge. This fusing process is important because it keeps the zipper tape in place as you see it and help to install both sides evenly. Using the invisible zipper foot, position the right groove of the foot over the coil and stitch until the foot touches the slider (1). Backstitch for a few stitches. With the zipper front facing the fabric right side, fuse the left side of the zipper tape to the left-hand fabric side, aligning the coils on the seamline and placing the zipper upper edge. Make sure the zipper isn’t twisted. Zip up the zipper and position it on the garment as if it were finished to make sure that it’s correctly placed. Unzip the zipper. Position the left groove of the foot over the coils and stitch until the foot touches the slider (2) Backstitch or a few stitches. To stitch the remainder of the seam, close the zipper and pin the seam together below the zipper ends. Slide the zipper foot to the left so the needle positions is to the right of the foot. Pull the zipper end out of the way. Beginning slightly above and to the left of the previous stitching, stitch the seam for about 2” (3). Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to secure the stitching. Using a regular presser foot, finish stitching the seam (4); press open. Hand tack the zipper-tape ends to the seam allowances only. Sturdier Stabilizer What’s the best stabilizer to use for embroider on knits? Maria Cristina F. Select a mesh stabilizer that’s lightweight and soft, such as PolyMesh Cut Away by OESD or Sulky Soft n Sheer. These are cut-away stabilizers made specifically for knits. Use a cut-away variety rather than a wash-away so that the stabilizer stays in the design stitches for continued support and the motif doesn’t stretch out of shape after wearing the garment a few times. If the design is intricate or dense or the fabric is thin, use two layers of stabilizer. Otherwise, one layer should be sufficient. In either case, use a temporary spray adhesive to hold the stabilizer in place while embroidering. Neck And Neck No matter what size dress pattern I make, I always have to make ¼” darts at the front neckline so it doesn’t gape. I’ve also tried slashing the front-neckline curve on the pattern and overlapping it ¼” to avoid a dart on the finished dress, but it somehow affects the way the dress hangs. What’s the answer to avoiding gaping necklines? Christina B. Gaping on both curved and V-necklines is a common problem because most people are fairly hollow above the chest. You’re actually on the right track with the concepts that you’re trying. A little fine-tuning should do the trick. Purchase the pattern size that fits your high bust and then adjust for your full bust. Many people tend to make garments that are too large in the shoulders and neck area because they only measure the full bust and buy patterns with that measurement in mind. Make a practice muslin of the bodice or top of the dress. Try on the muslin and pin small tucks where the fabric gapes. This may be in more than one place, but normally one small tuck on each side remedies the problem.. No single tuck should be more than about ¼”. Let the muslin dictate where the tucks are needed. Of course, it’s always easier to have a sewing buddy help with pinning. But when that’s not possible, stand in front of a mirror and pin on your own. Notice how the dress hangs at the center front. It’s rare for small neckline tucks to change the hang of the dress significantly. But if the dress isn’t hanging properly, pinch the muslin in various places to see what straightens the grain or hang of the dress. Take small tucks at the front armholes to shift the weight of the dress at the center front. Or pinch the shoulder seams to reshape the shoulder line. If this works, make the corresponding adjustment to the sleeve. You can also redraw the hemline to straighten it. The important thing is to “read” the muslin. In other words, see where there are inappropriate pull or drag lines and folds, and then tuck, pinch and pin until you achieve the right fit. What may seem strange in the muslin will actually work in the final garment. After the muslin fits nicely, take it off and mark the changes along the pin lines using a dark marking pen. Remove the pins and lay the muslin flat, pressing it if necessary. Lay the tissue pattern over the muslin and mark the changes. Then pin or tape the tucks into the pattern. ------------------------------- Sewing Nugget “Questions And Answers (Q&A) With Linda Lee” is an article excerpted from “Sew News Magazine’s January/February 2008 Issue”. The article was written by Linda Lee. Linda Lee, is the owner of The Sewing Workshop Pattern Collection, a group of patterns for distinctive garments using innovative sewing techniques. As a licensed interior designer and member of ASID since 1974, Linda has written thirteen books. To learn more above Linda Lee, please visit please click here. Sew News’ Magazine is sold exclusively at Amazon, their website www.sewnews.com and newsstands. Sew News Magazine is sold exclusively at Amazon, their website and newsstands. For further details or to purchase please click on the respective names below: Magazines If you are interested in further insights on Linda Lee’s Books, please click the below link which will take you to a selection of books. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sewing Places http://sewingplaces.blogspot.com http://sewingbooks.blogspot.com http://sewingplaces-education.blogspot.com |
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