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| Sewing Places – Blog Sewing Nuggets Penn Foster Career School – Online Dressmaking And Design 29th August, 2009 Topic: Advanced Dressmaking Techniques – Corners And Points Corners And Points Seaming and finishing straight edges together are simple matters, but corners and points present problems. Corners that are cut inward nearly always need strengthening and very careful finishing. Points, or outward corners, don’t need as much strengthening but require special treatment to avoid bulk. Corners cut inward can vary from a gentle, wide V to the acute angle produced by a slash. Building on basic techniques already covered, this unit deals with corners and points which occur in more advanced dressmaking. Another advanced technique you’ll encounter in this unit is the use of gussets. Gussets are shaped pieces of fabric that are inserted into a slash or a seam to allow for movement and reduce strain. Both the slash and the insertion of the gusset require good sewing technique. Although gussets will be referred to in this section as methods appropriate to them are mentioned, they’ll be dealt with in detail where the garment, or part of garment, on which they would be used is described. Strengthening Corners And Slashes Corners are formed when the edge of the garment turns sharply, as in a square neck. Slashes are made by cutting into the fabric to provide an opening, such as on a sleeve or neckline, or to insert a gusset, as on a kimono sleeve. Not only are corners weak in themselves, but they’re subjected to considerable strain in wear and nearly always need strengthening, particularly on woven fabrics which fray. There are several methods of strengthening. The choice depends on the position of the corner, the type of garment, and the fabric. Sometimes, a combination of methods is needed to provide the strength needed. Staying. Corners or slashes can be strengthened by tacking a small square of interfacing, or firm lining, on the wrong side of the garment, centered on the point of the corner so that it will be included in the final machine stitching. This method is best suited to fabrics that won’t be washed frequently. If the fabric is loosely woven, or frays easily, a piece of lightweight iron-on tape can be used. Stay-stitching. This is a row of machine stitching, worked just outside the stitching line, in the seam allowance. An example showing a square neck prepared in this way can be seen in Figure 1. This method can be combined with staying, if extra strength is needed. [Picture was here] Figure 1 – Corner Strengthened with Stay-Stitching In the case of a slash, this strengthening is always done before the slash is made. An example of a slash prepared in this way has been shown in your unit entitled Decorative Features. --------------------------- At the conclusion of each topic during the course, there are exams and here is an example of the type of questions that will be asked:- Inward sharp turns, such as those created in a square neckline, are examples of :- A. corners B. points C. turnings D. slashes ------------------------------- The above topic of “Corners And Points” is an excerpt from “Penn Foster Career School” – “Dressmaking And Design” course – “Introduction Module 4 – Advanced Dressmaking Techinques”. For further explanatory information on Penn Foster Career School and the course “Dressmaking And Design” please kindly click on the respective links below:- Dressmaking And Design · Tuition · Enroll To visit the website, please click here at www.pennfosterglobal.com. To write or call the school, please refer to contact details below:- Penn Foster Career School P.O. Box 1900 Scranton PA 18501-1900 United States Of America Telephone: 1-570-961-4195 Fax: 1-570-343-8462 Website: www.pennfosterglogal.com Sewing Places |
