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| Sewing Places – Blog Sewing Nuggets 28th August, 2009 Topic: Waistlines – Decorative Stretch Waistbands Decorative Stretch Waistbands Decorative Stretch Waistbands are available in solid colors, plaids, or stripes. Variously woven, braided, or shirred, they come in several different widths. Choose an elastic similar in weight to the fabric. Woven elastics are called webbings, and their stretchability varies from limited to moderate. Webbings are quite firm and will not roll over during wear. Limited-stretch webbing should be used only when the garment has a placket opening Braided elastics have a moderate amount of stretch and can often be used without a placket opening. Shirred bandings are any fabric stitched with elastic thread. On some products, both edges are finished; on others, only one. This determines how banding is applied. On unfinished edges, stitching lines often are indicated. Attaching Decorative Elastic Purchase decorative elastic or shirred banding in a length to fit around the waistline snugly, allowing an additional 2 in (5 cm) for finishing ends. Width choice depends on th effect desired. To avoid fraying during construction, always cut straight across the elastic. As an extra precaution, stitch across cut ends with a straight or zigzag stitch. Sew all garment seams that form the waistline. Staystitch on garment waistline seam and trim seam allowance to ¼ in (6mm). If no closure is being used, seam ends of elastic or banding by placing right sides together and stitching a 1 in (2.5 cm) seam. Press open. Turn top edges of seam allowance in diagonally and baste seam allowances to waistband. Divide garment waistline and elastic or banding into four or eight equal parts; pin-mark. If both edges of elastic are finished, lap wrong side of elastic over right side of garment. Place waistband seam at center back and match pins. If one edge is unfinished, place elastic inside garment, right sides together, matching pins and stitch lines. Stitch elastic with either a straight stitch set at 12 – 14 (2 mm) stitch length or a zigzag stitch of medium length and width. For a lapped waistline seam, stitch just inside the first elastic thread if sewing banding, but close to the finished edge if elastic webbing is being used. If the elastic has one unfinished edge, sew along indicated line. Sew between elastic threads if possible. With one hand behind presser foot, the other in front, carefully stretch elastic between pins as you stitch, to fit garment. Make certain stitch line of elastic remains aligned with seamline of skirt. Remove pins as you reach them, do not stitch over them. Overlap stitching at ends. Press seam carefully as it was stitched; test iron temperature first on a scrap to make sure the heat will not damage elastic. Press waistband up. The finished waistband pulls the garment into size by forming soft gathers; the number of gathers depends on size difference between waistline of garment and waistband. If a closure is included in garment, finish the ends of the elastic by turning them under the desired amount and tacking down. Underlap should extend under overlap enough to allow for fasteners. Sewing Nugget “Decorative Stretch Waistbands” is an excerpt from “New Complete Guide To Sewing” By Reader’s Digest”. New Complete Guide To Sewing – Step-By-Step Techniques For Making Clothes And Home Accessories By Reader’s Digest is sold exclusively at Amazon. For further details or to purchase please click on the respective book name below: Book |